Vegetable-tanned vs chrome-tanned leather: which leather suits you?
When you buy a leather bag, you sometimes come across terms like "vegetable-tanned" or "chrome-tanned". But what does that actually mean? And does it matter for the quality of your bag?
We work with both types of leather every day and notice that this topic is unclear to a lot of people. In this article we explain the difference clearly, so you can make a more informed choice.
What is tanning?
Tanning is the process by which raw animal hide is turned into leather. Without tanning, the material would decay, just like any other biological material. The tanning process makes the leather durable, supple and resistant to moisture.
There are various methods of tanning. The two most common are vegetable tanning and chrome tanning. Both have their own character, advantages and disadvantages.
Vegetable-tanned leather
In vegetable tanning, natural substances are used: tree bark, leaves and plant extracts such as oak bark, mimosa or chestnut. This is the oldest tanning technique and has been used for thousands of years.
Characteristics
- Colour: Warm, natural tones that darken as the leather gets older
- Texture: Slightly firmer to the touch, with a matt surface
- Patina: Develops a beautiful, unique patina through use and sunlight
- Smell: A distinctive, earthy leather smell
Advantages
- Each piece of leather becomes unique through the patina that develops
- Biodegradable at the end of its lifespan
- No heavy metals or chemicals in the tanning process
- Excellent shape retention
Disadvantages
- The tanning process takes weeks to months (vs hours with chrome)
- A more limited colour palette: mainly earth and brown tones
- More sensitive to water stains when untreated
- Higher production costs due to the time-consuming process
Chrome-tanned leather
Chrome tanning uses chromium salts to treat the hide. This method was developed in the 19th century and is by far the most widely used tanning technique today: around 80-90% of all leather worldwide is chrome-tanned.
Characteristics
- Colour: Available in virtually any colour, from bright red to deep black
- Texture: Soft and supple, with a uniform surface
- Patina: Develops less or no visible patina
- Smell: A less pronounced leather smell
Advantages
- Soft and supple, lovely for bags that you fold open or squeeze a lot
- A wide colour palette possible
- More resistant to water and stains
- Faster and cheaper to produce
Disadvantages
- Less unique character: the leather barely changes over time
- The tanning process uses chromium salts, which can be harmful to the environment with poor waste processing
- Not biodegradable
Which type of leather do we use?
At Beocca we work with full-grain leather that is chrome-tanned. Why? Because it gives us the suppleness and colour possibilities we need for our bags, while the quality is excellent. In doing so, we make sure that our leather comes from LWG-certified tanneries, where strict environmental standards apply.
That doesn't mean that vegetable-tanned leather is "better". It's different. A vegetable-tanned bag has a different character and calls for a different kind of appreciation: you literally see the leather age, and for many people that's precisely what makes it beautiful.
The choice: what do you look out for?
| Vegetable-tanned | Chrome-tanned | |
|---|---|---|
| Suppleness | Firmer, stiffer | Soft, flexible |
| Patina | Strong, gets more beautiful with time | Minimal to no patina |
| Colours | Limited (natural tones) | Virtually unlimited |
| Water resistance | Moderate (without treatment) | Good |
| Environment | Biodegradable | Depends on the tannery |
| Price | Higher | Lower |
Our tips
- Choose vegetable-tanned if you love a product that gains character over the years and you appreciate the earthy, matt look.
- Choose chrome-tanned if you want a supple, colourful bag that feels good straight away and requires less care.
In our collection you'll mainly find chrome-tanned full-grain leather, such as in our Mason leather laptop bag, the Bryce backpack or the Maia shoulder bag. Curious to learn more about leather types? Then read our complete guide to leather types.
Summary
Vegetable-tanned leather and chrome-tanned leather are two fundamentally different materials, each with their own charm. The choice depends on what matters to you: character and patina, or suppleness and choice of colour. Both can last for years if you treat them well.
