Summary: Suede and velour are sanded split leather from the lower layer of the hide. Nubuck is sanded full-grain leather from the top layer. As a result, nubuck is stronger, has a finer grain, and is also more expensive.
The Same Look, a Different Origin
All three materials have a velvety surface created by sanding. Sanding loosens the fiber ends, creating a short nap that changes direction when you run your hand over it. The difference lies not in the technique, but in which part of the hide is processed.
A cowhide is split horizontally at the tannery. The top layer with the natural grain is the strongest. The layer beneath it, the split, has a looser fiber structure. See also What is split leather?.
- Suede is made by sanding the inner side of the split.
- Velour is practically the same as suede. It is mainly a trade term, sometimes used for a slightly longer or denser nap.
- Nubuck is made by very lightly sanding the outer side of the grain layer, while keeping the strong fiber structure intact.
What This Means in Practice
Strength. Nubuck retains the dense fibers of the top layer and is therefore significantly sturdier. Suede stretches more quickly and tears sooner under strain.
Appearance. Nubuck has a very short, fine nap and a sleek, almost silky appearance. Suede has a longer, softer nap that looks fluffier.
Price. With nubuck, you sacrifice the complete grain layer, the most expensive part of the hide. Suede uses material that would otherwise be a by-product. The price difference is substantial.
Vulnerability. Both are more sensitive to moisture and grease than smooth leather because they do not have a sealed surface. Nubuck stains slightly less quickly than suede, but the difference is small.
How to Tell Them Apart
First, look at the cross-section of an edge. Nubuck shows a dense, even cross-section with the nap only on the outside. Suede is rough on both sides.
Then run your finger against the direction of the nap. Nubuck shows a subtle difference in color that quickly disappears. Suede leaves a clearer mark that remains visible longer.
Finally, feel the thickness. Nubuck is usually firmer and springs back when you bend it. Suede hangs more loosely.
Caring for Velvety Leather
The rules are the same for all three, and they differ considerably from those for smooth leather.
- Do not use leather grease or balm. These flatten the nap and make the surface blotchy and shiny. This is usually irreversible.
- Brush regularly. A special suede brush with rubber or brass bristles lifts the nap and removes dust. Do this when the leather is dry and always in one direction.
- Remove dry stains with an eraser. A suede eraser or a clean white eraser removes light marks and shiny worn areas without moisture.
- Waterproof preventively. A spray for suede and nubuck makes the surface dirt- and water-repellent without sealing the structure. Repeat after approximately ten wears. Read more about this in Waterproofing leather.
- Let wet leather dry slowly. Never place it near a radiator or use a hair dryer. Fill the bag with paper and leave it at room temperature. Then brush the nap back up.
Which Material Should You Choose for Each Product?
For a bag that is used every day and carries weight, smooth full-grain leather is by far the most practical choice. Velvety leather requires more attention and is less forgiving.
If you still want the soft appearance, choose nubuck over suede when the product will be subjected to strain, and take a waterproofing routine into account. Suede looks best in products that endure little wear, such as a lining, a jacket, or an accessory you wear selectively.
For complete nubuck care, we have a separate article: What is nubuck and how do you care for it?.
