Summary: Draw grease stains out of leather with an absorbent powder, not water. Treat ink stains as quickly as possible and only by blotting. For both, the sooner the better, and the less you rub, the less damage you cause.
Why these stains are different
Ordinary dirt sits on the surface and can be wiped away. Grease and ink penetrate the fibers and bind to them. Water does not help with this, and rubbing only spreads the stain further. You need to draw the substance out, not work over it.
Grease stains
Think hand cream, a splash of olive oil, a sandwich, or simply skin oil on a handle.
Immediately after the stain appears
- Blot away the excess grease with a dry, absorbent cloth or paper towel. Do not rub; only press down and lift.
- Sprinkle a generous layer of absorbent powder over the stain. Cornstarch and talcum powder work best. Baking powder and potato starch are good alternatives.
- Press the powder down lightly so it comes into contact with the leather.
- Leave it for at least eight hours, or overnight for a large stain.
- Brush away the powder with a soft brush or wipe it off with a dry cloth.
- Repeat if the stain is still visible. Two or three rounds are not unusual.
For an old, absorbed grease stain
Powder is less effective in this case because the grease has already bonded to the leather. You can try using heat: place a sheet of absorbent paper over the stain and run an iron over it on the lowest setting for a few seconds. The grease will liquefy and absorb into the paper. Be careful and test this first.
If that does not work, the most pragmatic solution is to condition the entire panel evenly. The stain will not disappear, but it will become part of a more uniform whole. On vegetable-tanned leather, such a mark often fades over time anyway. See What is patina?.
Ink stains
Ink is more difficult because the pigment adheres to the fibers. Speed is the most important factor here.
Fresh ink
- Blot immediately with a dry cloth. Work from the outside in so you do not spread the stain.
- Take a cotton swab and lightly moisten it with isopropyl alcohol or regular rubbing alcohol.
- Test it first on an inconspicuous area, as alcohol can strip away color.
- Carefully blot the stain, using a clean section of the swab each time. Never rub and never reuse the same dirty swab.
- Blot afterward with a slightly damp cloth to remove any alcohol residue.
- Let the leather dry and condition it, as alcohol dries it out.
What to avoid with ink
- Hairspray. A commonly mentioned household tip, but the hairspray itself leaves a sticky, shiny mark that is more difficult to remove than the ink.
- Acetone-based nail polish remover. Dissolves pigment, including the color of your bag.
- Bleach. Permanently damages the fiber structure.
- Rubbing with an eraser or abrasive. You remove the surface, not the ink.
For nubuck and suede
Different rules apply here. Liquid products usually make the problem worse. Use a suede eraser for light stains, brush up the nap, and treat grease stains only with powder. For ink on suede, a specialist is almost always the wisest option.
When to stop
There comes a point when further attempts cost more than they are worth. If you notice the color starting to fade, the surface becoming shiny, or the stain spreading instead of getting smaller, stop.
A shoemaker or leather specialist has products and experience that you do not have at home, and the cost of professional treatment is generally negligible compared with the value of a good bag. Also consider your brand's warranty and repair terms, discussed further in Warranty and repairs for leather goods.
Prevention
An impregnated bag absorbs grease and ink much more slowly, giving you more time to respond. Two treatments per year are sufficient. See Impregnating leather. Also store pens in a separate compartment with the cap closed, because most ink stains on bags occur on the inside.
